We bid farewell to Goha hotel in Gondar. By contrast to our usual roadside camps, it has been a taste of luxury. Even so, the town reflects a reality for many Ethiopians: subsistence living. In a populous country with an economy based largely on agriculture, well-paid work is rare. "There is no middle class." as one local man told me. Notwithstanding the struggles, the majority of folks have an upbeat disposition.