Axum Bound

Now, the second section of the tour heads north through the Simien Mountains to another ancient capital, Axum. We start today with a climb to almost 3,000 meters before descending to bush camp. The road will be paved in some parts and dirt track in others. The landscape is lovely and the hills justify the use of a "mountain" bike. Riders have changed their tires to meet the demands of the new surface.

We bid farewell to Goha hotel in Gondar. By contrast to our usual roadside camps, it has been a taste of luxury. Even so, the town reflects a reality for many Ethiopians: subsistence living. In a populous country with an economy based largely on agriculture, well-paid work is rare. "There is no middle class." as one local man told me. Notwithstanding the struggles, the majority of folks have an upbeat disposition.

The road crews can still use rudimentary tools. Loads are often carried by pack animals and people. Vehicles are driven by only the very wealthy or professional drivers. And when lorries pass, they are filled to the brim with goods and passengers. 

Bike Donation

The Tour d' Afrique has a foundation that raises money to provide bicycles for communities through which the tour passes. Today, there were 21 bikes presented to a local organization called Link Ethiopia. At a restaurant, Brian explained the purpose of the gift and the support the TDA lends towards sustainable, active transport in African societies. A variety of officials from the recipient organization spoke in Amharic, expressing their gratitude for the new wheels and the ongoing partnership. 

Two cyclists, Birgitta Hermann and Catharine Daly, presented bikes to locals. Their fund-raising was devoted to the purchase of bikes for the African people. Smiles all around. In all, 90 bicycles will be donated in five places en route to Cape Town.

Cycling is a marvellous means of transport in any society. It makes sense here due to the low cost, the relative ease of maintenance and the healthy benefits. When one cycles in towns, one can appreciate that the air quality would improve if more folks rode (or walked) rather than used the tuk-tuks or piled onto pickup trucks. 

Orthodox Church

A quartet of us visited a World Heritage site here in Gondar: the Royal enclosure of King Fasilides. It is in the centre of town, a walled compound within which are centuries-old stone structures built for a succession of kings. The Ethiopian tour guide association provides well-trained guides and we hired one, Enoch, who ushered us around the various buildings. He explained the various purposes for each structure; there was a concert venue and a sauna among the lot.

Brian had a guide book that augmented what the guide shared with us. Having spent a lot of time here over the years, Brian's perspective is helpful to many cyclists. 

Next on the itinerary, after a sumptuous local meal, was a trip to the Debre Birhan Selassie church. It was opened by the attending priest who invited us to kiss the cross. Within the church, there are painted walls with religious iconography. The narrative of mother Mary is represented as well as portraits of the Trinity. 

We were asked not to use a flash within the dark chamber of this church. A concerted effort is made to  conserve the painting on the walls. Many Ethiopians are protective of this religious tradition. Crucifixes are often large wooden pendants and some women have the cross tattooed on their foreheads.

Local Pleasures

Ethiopian cuisine is simple and tasty. The standard meal of injera and curried dishes is delightful. We have already sampled a few versions. It is clean and almost all reputable eateries do did a tap for washing. We sanitize our hands and dig in. 

The fruit juices are brilliant. One can order a combination of mango, papaya and guava in a drink that resembles a smoothie. We started our day at a bar called Sofa where they served us this concoction. It is rich and healthy. Check out the cocktail below.

Also refreshing is the presence of women who are free to socialize and interact with their partners or be on their own in a social setting. This phenomenon is in contrast to the rare sight of any women in public places in Sudan. Here is a Gondar lady enjoying a morning beverage and chat.

Buddy Arrives

Had it not been for my childhood friend, Brian Hoeniger, I would not be here. Brian has worked for the Tour D'Afrique since 2008. He and his wife Lorrie first worked in Africa with an organization called Canadian Physicians for Aid and Relief in the 1980s. CPAR's director, Henry Gold, had hired Lorrie as a nurse for a project in Ethiopia and Brian had complementary skills. Several years later, Henry again hired Brian to do book-keeping and administrative tasks for TDA. Brian put the seed of riding Africa in my mind years ago and I slowly mustered the gumption to give it a go.

When we climbed up to Gondar to complete the first section of the TDA, Brian was at the Goha Hotel where we have an option of camping or rooming. He has worked throughout Africa and considers Ethiopia his favourite country on earth. He will join us for the Gondar to Addis section of the tour which is novel due to the re-routing of the TDA. If you are interested in the biblical sites along the path, look up Axum and Lalibela. There are ancient churches en route and the rich Orthodox Church tradition remains in these towns. Below is the World Heritage site of Fasiledes castle here in Gondar. 

Abysinnia Days

We bid farewell to the Sudan at the dusty, hot town of Qadabbit which leads to a bridge that symbolically marks the transition to Ethiopia. It was a long day on the saddle: 166 kms. Some opted to take the lunch truck to lunch and pedal the latter part. We all had to submit our passports at the small structure on the Sudanese side. Paperwork was filled out confirming our stay in Sudan and then we pushed our bikes to the Ethiopian custom house where we were photographed and fingerprinted by scanner. 

Immediately, one can feel a difference in the people, the land and the culture. The African tri-colour theme is dominant in the contemporary clothing. Coffee and beer are on offer. More English is spoken in addition to the national tongue of Amharic. Children abound in a nation that is bursting under a population growth that is staggering. 

Wherever the tour stops, a posse of young entrepreneurs set up a cold drink emporium adjacent to the camp. It is a quick, thriving trade for a group of thirsty, depleted riders. Given our appearance, we draw a crowd of onlookers who are content to gawk at sweaty westerners sitting under the shade of a tarp. 

These kids are reputed to throw stones at cyclists for no apparent reason. While some riders have copped a few projectiles, the intent of the children does not seem to be malicious. Some speculate that the village kids grow up with livestock who are herded by tossing pebbles or by prodding with branches and the dirt-throwing is an extension of that practise. For the most part, they simply want to engage. They will shout "You! You! You!" and ask "Where are you go?"

Livestock: Alive or Dead

One lasting impression is of the rugged, serene creatures that inhabit the desert and upon whom pastoralists rely for their livelihood. Goats, camels, donkeys and cattle roam the vast landscape that is Sudan. They are sometimes accompanied by sun-baked herdsmen and their spouses or children. These beasts somehow eke out enough nutrition from an unforgiving ecosystem to survived. The asses and camels carry burdens. They all have value. I salute their constitutions. 

Another image that will never leave me is the carcasses of the animals by the roadside. They look as though someone has punctured a balloon and simply deflated the beast. Sometimes, the vultures have had their way and there is a rack of bones on the shoulder of the road. In a society where livestock are a major source of wealth, the animals that fall to disease or injury or accident are left to natural decomposition. And in countries where animals share roads with humans, the end of life is in your face at the roadside, reminding you of how fragile life is.